This week, the City of Baghdad was choked and covered with fine dust as high winds pushed in a sandstorm from the West.I knew it was coming, since I get a weather briefing every day from an Air Force meteorologist, but it was nonetheless a surprise when I stepped outside and saw a dense, impenetrable fog cast about the horizon.
We've had storms before, but this was the biggest. When most people think of sand storms, they probably think of huge rolling clouds of sand like something out of "The Mummy." And sure, there are some storms like that from time to time, but those are the exception. And they're not really the Baghdad thing. We're in a city - although on the edge of it - and there are buildings, trees and things to dampen the storm's energy.The other misconception is that it's gritty, sandblasting-type sand. Nothing can be further from the truth. In fact, the sand - dust, really - is very fine. So fine that you hardly notice it when you breathe it in. Even though you know you should avoid that as much as possible.
There are as many types of sand here as
the Eskimos have types of snow.There's hard-packed sand after the rains have dried. It's as tough as concrete and is usually packed or rutted in exactly the shape of the last vehicle that passed by when it was wet. In one area, the sand had dried - I'm not sure how - in a kind of undulating, wavy pattern. Driving across this at anything over 2 miles per hour is a teeth-jarring experience.
Another kind is crusty on the surface and harder just below. This usually happens when sand is exposed to a light rain. It kind of reminds me of a light frost on the grass during winter back home.
And then, there's powdered sand. There's a parking lot full of this over by the Pizza Hut and the Turkish press shop (where I tip with such a grand sum - $1.50 - that I'm afraid that the owner wants to arrange a marriage with one of his daughters - if not two). This kind of sand is the consistency of baby powder. I'm tempted to kind of skip across this like Alan Sheppard on the Moon. It leaves a boot-print so perfect that you could probably see the trademark symbol right by the name of the manufacturer.

And that's the kind of dust in this storm. I walked to work through the beginnings of the storm, seeing the sand blow horizontally in the headlights of the vehicles on base. It was still dark, but I could see the buildings fairly far off despite the sand. But as the storm intensified, this became less and less possible. When I finally re-emerged for breakfast, the sky was completely obscured, and the sand hung in the air fog-like, so that I couldn't even see the gate guards from the building door. Stepping outside, I thought I had stepped onto the set of "Dune."

As the day wore on, the storm grew in intensity. Not in wind, mind you, for that was never much beyond a breeze. In fact, that contributed to the perpetual haze, as the sand didn't blow in and blow out, rather it blew in and just kind of hung there, obscuring everything.
The guards at the dining facility wore those paper masks on their faces. They're all from Ghana, so they're probably familiar with bad air. But somebody nonetheless thought of them and got them masks. Of course, no one got me a mask, but I'm only outside for a short period, not standing guard for hours at a time. To be fair to the Army, they did get me something like a sand mask. But it's really like a winter cold-weather protection thing for your face and neck. And with thick, heavy cotton, it's almost impossible to breathe through. At least the Air Force guy below got something better:

I'm sure some readers are about to fire up the old word processor and zip off a letter to their congressman. Something to the effect of: "Our poor men and women are in harm's way and they don't have adequate protection against dust storms. Quick. Spend $62 million to send them hankerchiefs." If that's you. Stop. Push away from the keyboard. Do not continue.
First of all, we can buy that stuff here if we need it. Secondly, I already have enough crap as it is. I brought three dufflebags of junk, and I only use one and a half dufflebags' worth. If I ever find the jerk who wrote congress saying "We should make sure every single one of our troops has a chemical warfare suit" I will be hard-pressed not to wring that person's neck. What do you think? We can carry a chemical warfare suit - gas mask, rubber boots, gloves and the suit itself - around with us everywhere we go? So, at your taxpayer's expense, there are 130,000 chemical warfare suits that have been flown across the Atlantic, up to Iraq, and which now sit in an unopened dufflebag beneath our beds. For our entire deployment. Then they come home and get sold off to Army surplus stores. Yes, folks, that's your tax dollars in action.
But I digress, and we were talking about sand (come to think of it, perhaps I'll dig that gas mask out after all). It's pretty much everywhere here, year round. And there's nothing to hold it down. Grass is an almost unheard of commodity. I have actually seen some in a few spots on base where water faucets leak or rain runoff collects. But such spots are few and far between, and once it becomes sufficiently dry, the sand migrates to and fro, covers your trailer steps, silts over the cars and clogs up the filters on your airconditioner.
When the new folks in my team arrived in February, one of the enlisted guys - on his first trip outside the United States - summed it up pretty well. "This air," he said, "tastes dirty."
Anyway, that's the kind of day it was - or days, since the storm hung around for two. All of the pictures above were taken around 2 p.m. By four p.m., it was worse, and I took the picture below. No, I didn't play with the color, that's what the sky really looked like. Anyway, I didn't hang around much longer. I may indeed die of some bizzarre lung fungus in 30 years, but the sooner I got out of the sand and back in my trailer, the lower my chances will be.



Gen. Austin addressing the soldiers who are about to take the citizenship oath.
